Capital cities so often do not reflect the country.
Ulaan Bataar an interesting experience.
24.10.2010
Ulaan Bataar - Civilisation
Sun tours collected us using an off duty policeman as driver who took us to Chinggis Khans silver statue -amazing ! Power is so easily lost as times change. Smog over UB easily visible on drive in - traffic jams usual-interesting techniques employed by all drivers - go for the gap and use the horn. Gomez - a very welcome shower & shave. Walked into centre of UB about 2 km passed Tesco's to a wifi cafe with 2 armed security guards! Caught a local trying to get in to Jacky's rucksack nice to see two so gamefully employed pratts. Very wary feeling - went into a restaurant to calm down - it worked. 3 beers a coffee and 2 main meals for under £9. Bought supplies at Tesco and walked back in the dark.
Warm night, opened window to let traffic & train noise in but at least was cooler. Fried egg breakfast before the washing was returned & off to the temple complex. Monks rhythmic chanting and the younger ones playing like little boys do. Cold wind out of the sun - no incidents today but it makes you look at everyone as a possible criminal - not good as missed out on a couple conversations with locals. Cloudy & fumes but off to the museum of Mongolian history - very good from early stone age to present. 47% of pop still on primitive agriculture. Cheggis Khan 12th century Kharakorum capital. Meal at same place & then more supplies at tesco - how adventurous are we !!
Like yesterday but ran money out on toms, apples & banana. Visited nat history museum - Cretaceous land not chalk sea - reptiles from the gobi and minerals from the mountains very impressive - stuffed wild life had seen better days. Eventually found square with Chengis Khan. The heavy snow of the morning melted and temp warmed up. Back by 1745 ready to research China.
Early start - easy walk to the station in predawn cold & light - train on time and the carriage to ourselves. Climbed out of smog valley of UB upto 1550 m Steppe with a few scattered gers and flocks. 10 m of the 70m animals died in the last years hard winter of minus 50'c ! Only about 200mm of ppt / yr
Seen from the train 2 vultures, herd of antelope / deer, ponies, cattle, Bactrian camels, plovers, buzzards(honey), coal pits open cast. Back down at 1000m semi dessert with wadis more camels and ponies- so much open space with so little rain. The border just after dark - lost passports to Mongolian officials before heading to china where we lost them again. Change of gauge - carriages lifted up and boggies exchanged. Lots shunting and banging - not very comfortable.
